Shaving against the direction of growth: Yes or no
Shaving against the direction of growth is a topic that divides men into two camps. Some swear by the smoothness it brings, others warn of irritation. What is right?
7 BARBER / PLZEŇShaving against the direction of growth is a topic that divides men into two camps. Some swear by the smoothness it brings, others warn of irritation. What is correct?
Shaving directions
When shaving, you can choose from three directions:
- In the direction of growth (WTG) – in the direction in which the beard grows
- Perpendicular to the direction of growth (XTG) – perpendicular to the growth of the beard
- Against the direction of growth (ATG) – opposite to the growth of the beard
Advantages of shaving against the direction of growth
- Maximum smoothness – shave closest to the skin
- Longer duration – takes longer to grow the beard again grow up
- Smooth touch – skin is as smooth as a baby’s
Disadvantages of shaving against the direction of growth
- Higher risk of irritation – More intense skin contact
- Ingrown hairs – Beards shaved too short can grow back
- Cuts – Higher risk of minor injuries
- Irritation of sensitive skin – Redness and burning
When shaving against the direction works
ATG shaving may be safe if:
- You have: resistant, insensitive skin
- You use a good quality, sharp razor
- Prepare your skin correctly (hot towel, pre-shave)
- First pass in the direction of growth
- You use enough lubrication
When to avoid shaving against the direction
- You have sensitive skin prone to irritation
- You suffer from ingrown hairs
- You have a curly beard
- You use a blunt razor
The recommended procedure
For most men is best combination:
- First pass: In the direction of growth (WTG)
- Second pass: Perpendicular to the direction of growth (XTG)
- Third pass (optional): Against the direction of growth (ATG) – problem areas only
Safe ATG shaving tips
- Always do a WTG pass first
- Apply a new layer of foam before ATG
- Use minimal pressure – let the razor work
- Shorter strokes with frequent rinsing
- Apply a soothing balm immediately after shaving



